What do Kanye West, Meghan McCain and Yasser Arafat have in common? They have all, at one time or another, sported a scarf that critics label “jihadi chic” and “hate couture,” describing it as “[symbolizing] murderous Palestinian jihad.” Kuffiyeh, ghutra, shemagh, hatta, or simply Palestine scarf - no matter what we choose to call it, we can all agree on one thing: once worn as headwear by men in the Arab world, it has become a symbol with connotations ranging from freedom to terrorism. It has been seen on Hollywood’s finest, hipsters, and European activist youth alike. TV hostess Rachael Ray even caused furor among conservative commentators and bloggers when she allegedly wore the kuffiyeh in a Dunkin Donuts ad. In reality, the black and white paisley-patterned scarf she wore only slightly resembled the real deal. What’s the deal with the Palestine scarf or kuffiyeh, then, when it alone is capable of sparking so much controversy? While it is true that the kuffiyeh, as other symbols, has been claimed not only by well intentioned people, the American media branding of this symbol as terrorist attire is easily unfair, if not dangerous.

The kuffiyeh is traditionally used as men’s headwear in most parts of the Arab world to protect against the harsh climate of sun and sand. During the Arab revolts of the mid to late 1930s against the British in the mandate of Palestine, the kuffiyeh became a symbol of resistance and solidarity with the cause. Picked up as a signature garment of late Palestinian leader Yasser Arafat, it was increasingly regarded as a symbol of the Palestinian national movement. The Kuffiyeh gained popularity as a solidarity symbol among activist minded youth in the late 80s during the first Palestinian intifada (uprising) and became a mainstream hype from the mid 2000s after being spotted on various runways. Because the kuffiyeh is such a commonly used garment, and because it means very different things to different people, it would be wrong to connect it to a single group of people. The fact that any terrorist can, and sometimes does conceal his or her identity by covering the face with this garment has caused the unfortunate connection in American media of the kuffiyeh meaning terrorist attire.

Sadly, this is the view prevalent in the US media today. American retail chain Urban Outfitters’ sale of colored kuffiyehs led to fierce critique and strong reactions from bloggers and media alike, resulting in the chain’s withdrawal of the product and the issuing of a statement apologizing if they offended anyone.  And in the Rachael Ray incident, her ad for Dunkin Donuts was ultimately taken off air because the scarf she wore could potentially be an “object of misperception.”  In these, as in other cases, the garment’s symbolic value is being ignored and its message distorted. One commentator in the Washington Times even went so far as to compare the kuffiyeh with modified Ku Klux Klan hoods! Even though we cannot honestly claim that the scarf’s only users have been pure-hearted saints, it is safe to say that terrorists are not among its main target groups and that the garment in no way was created or is commonly worn with evil intentions.

The fact that any terrorist can, and sometimes does conceal his or her identity by covering the face with this garment has caused the unfortunate connection in American media of the kuffiyeh meaning terrorist attire. 

The popular habit of connecting and labeling everything Arab or Palestinian to terrorism, intolerance and evil is a dangerous road to walk down. Not only does it create further division and distance between Americans and Arabs, putting Arab-Americans in an especially suspect and difficult position, torn between their American patriotism and their defense of their cultural background. It also contributes to demonizing entire cultures, spreading hatred and fear instead of understanding and respect. Rather than trying to understand the reasons behind people wearing the kuffiyeh and what it really stands for, people are choosing to label, and thus to ignore, any fair cause behind it. Not only that, but with the complaints leading to taking the Rachael Ray ad off the air, the critics are actually working towards disrupting one of the highest regarded values of the American society: the freedom of speech and expression in the form of wearing whatever you want however you want to wear it.

I must say that I wear my kuffiyeh with pride. And even as a kuffiyeh-clad person with Arab roots, I am very far from the ideologies of the so-called terrorists.  Of course, this is the case with the vast majority of us. I view terrorists just as much a hinder for peace, understanding, and mutual respect in the world society as I hope you do. To me the kuffiyeh is still a politically-loaded symbol, even after hipsters and teens all over Europe started to wear it for the sake of being trendy, and I do hope that it stays that way.  Although it is far from a negative sign that people around the world have been flocking to get their hands on a kuffiyeh, it would be tragic if it would lose its original message to fashion. Being not only a symbol of the Palestinian national struggle and its supporters, it stands for universal values: the dream of being free, of having the right to a country, of having a cause to gather around, and of patriotism. For Palestinians, the kuffiyeh has in fact become a national symbol on the same level as their flag. And even though the American flag would be used by members of the Ku Klux Klan and the likes of them, it would be difficult for anybody to denounce it as a symbol of racism or terror. Therefore, the next time you see a kuffiyeh, try to think of it in terms of a national symbol, just like the American flag. Just as hardcore racists are making up a very small minority of the American people, hateful terrorists and their sympathizers are making up an equally minimal share of the Palestinian people. The kuffiyeh was never, and will never be “terrorist chic” or “hate couture”.